Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup requires careful preparation and a lot of work. In many cases, you will need to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you should select the type of shower that you want to install. It is important to ascertain whether the picked shower can handling specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).
It is also essential to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to set up. However, although the pipe connection is easy, it is easily dislodged. In addition, it is troublesome to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a really cheap alternative and no additional plumbing is included. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from inconvenient temperature level control options.
Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly discussed mixers. They likewise require extra pipes of hot and cold water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from becoming too hot. Among the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature level control. However, it is the most expensive of the various mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electrical pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of https://numberfields.asu.edu/NumberFields/team_display.php?teamid=60588 shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature and pressure to be changed through a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in use within the household. A significant disadvantage of electric showers is that the control knob just permits the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this issue is tackled in some designs which are offered with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you want to set up, the shower head must either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drain system to remove the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will likewise need to be thought about if an instant or electrical shower unit is being installed.
Use the instruction guide provided with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipes, they ought to be provided a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This might need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to turn off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (sometimes as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance beneath it-- potentially made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this alternative, the main and distribution pipelines will likewise need to be raised to fulfill the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding maintain maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. In addition, by minimising using elbows for pipeline corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or disregarding local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not properly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outdoors tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.